Difference between revisions of "Team:DTU-Denmark/Hardware"
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| + | <h3>Bill of materials</h3> | ||
| − | + | <p style="text-align:center;"><img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2018/2/21/T--DTU-Denmark--hardware1.png" style="width: 100%;"> | |
| − | <p style="text-align:center;"><img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2018/2/21/T--DTU-Denmark--hardware1.png" style="width: | + | |
</p> | </p> | ||
</p> | </p> | ||
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<p style="text-align:justify" > | <p style="text-align:justify" > | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li>Pressure gauge</li> | ||
| + | <li>[a,b]: Car jack, 2 tons</li> | ||
| + | <li>Steel square tube, length (30 cm), width (10 cm)</li> | ||
| + | <li>Threaded steel rod, length (30 cm), Ø (10mm)</li> | ||
| + | <li>Hex nuts (8)</li> | ||
| + | <li>Washers (8)</li> | ||
| + | </ol> | ||
| + | |||
| + | Here is a fun video demonstrating the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itpHre49MBk" target="_blank">fabrication process</a>. | ||
| + | |||
| + | <p style="text-align:center;"><img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2018/4/41/T--DTU-Denmark--hardware2.png" style="width: 100%;"> | ||
| + | </p> | ||
| + | </p> | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | <h3>Fabrication steps</h3> | ||
| + | <p style="text-align:justify"><span style="color: #ff0000"><b>Caution</b></span>: When working with metal, be very careful of your environment and work piece. You cannot see/feel if metal is scorching warm before it’s too late, and you get 2nd degree burn on your fingers. The machinery is spinning very fast, and has <b>A LOT</b> of torque. It wont stop or even slow down if your hair or sleeves get caught. Wear protective eyewear. After every cut in metal, make sure to <b>deburr ALL edges</b>. The metal is razor sharp after a cut/drill. | ||
| + | Frame: [Square tube, threaded rod, 8 hex-nuts, 8 washers] | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> Cut a 30 cm long piece of square tubing. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Cut your piece in half, lengthwise. You now have the top and bottom of the frame. </li> | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> If you are not able to use a saw for this step, a grinder with a cut-wheel will work. However; if you do this, you’ll need to mill the edges in order to make them square. </li> </ol> | ||
| + | <li> Measure out where you’ll have to drill holes. The edge of the drilled hole should be 2.5 cm from any edge. Use one tap with a center-punch. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Drill the holes. The holes should be drilled in steps in order to not destroy the drill. Start with 4mm → 6mm → 8 → 10mm. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Cut two, 30 cm long pieces from a threaded rod. Ø10mm </li> | ||
| + | <li> Assemble according to the schematic. </li> </ol> | ||
</p> | </p> | ||
| + | <p style="text-align:center;"><img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2018/c/c3/T--DTU-Denmark--hardware3.png" style="width: 100%;"> | ||
| + | </p> | ||
| + | <p style="text-align:center;"><img src="https://static.igem.org/mediawiki/2018/c/c0/T--DTU-Denmark--hardware4.png" style="width: 100%;"> | ||
| + | </p> | ||
| + | <p> | ||
| + | <b>Car jack<b>: [Car jack, pressure gauge]<br> | ||
| + | This step will depend heavily on which car jack you acquire. We bought a car jack without a pressure gauge. If you buy a jack with a pressure gauge, disregard this part of the instructions. I’ll explain how to hack the car jack in general terms, and how to determine which pressure gauge to buy.<br> | ||
| + | |||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> Completely disassemble the car jack, everything, even the ball valves. </li> | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li>There will be some hydraulic oil; save it. Note how you disassemble it, you’ll have to assemble it again later.</li> | ||
| + | </ol> | ||
| + | <li>Measure the diameter at the widest part of the innermost main piston (inside the red square on the figure). </li> | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> This is the point at which the piston is experiencing hydraulic force. You need this area to determine which pressure gauge to buy.</li> </ol> | ||
| + | <li> Measure where to drill (Ø1mm) an L-shaped channel in the base of the jack. This means that you’ll have to make 2 plunges that meet inside the base of the car jack. </li> | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> This step might be a bit tricky. Just be sure to make straight plunges with the drill-press and not to drill all the way through. Make well measured and well considered plunges. Look at the illustration for visual aids. </li> </ol> | ||
| + | <li> Enlarge the outer hole to be able to accommodate the threads of your pressure gauge. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Tap the enlarged hole with the appropriate thread pitch. </li> | ||
| + | <ol> | ||
| + | <li> This mostly follows a standard e.g. American Standard Thread. </li> </ol> | ||
| + | <li> Clean All of the car jack parts in engine cleaner/ethanol. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Screw in the pressure gauge after having taped the threads with teflon/plumbers tape. Optionally use an O-ring. </li> | ||
| + | <li> Assemble the hydraulic press, fill it with the hydraulic oil. </li> | ||
| + | </ol> | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | </p> | ||
| + | |||
</div> | </div> | ||
</div> | </div> | ||
Revision as of 13:51, 17 October 2018
Hardware
An important part of this project was for us to be able to characterize the material properties of the fungus. We had specialized equipment at our disposal, but not everyone has, so we decided to make an alternative for future teams to be able to follow in our footsteps without the headache of needing very expensive machinery. We built a hydraulic press for us to perform compressive and tensile strength tests. These kinds of tests are needed in order to determine the stiffness of the material, which is an important factor for evaluating the viability of a building material.
This page will give a brief introduction to mechanical testing and the physics behind it, building instructions of the hydraulic, characterization and discussion of the press’s abilities.
Material characterization
When wanting to determine material characteristics, one way to do it, is to perform destructive tests. These tests enable us to accurately predict how a material will act when under load. An important parameter is Young's Modulus. It predicts how much a material sample extends under tension or shortens under compression. The Young's modulus directly applies to cases of uniaxial stress, that is tensile or compressive stress in one direction and no stress in the other directions. It is a measure of how stiff/rigid a material is in its linear region. When a material is experiencing stresses, in its linear region, it will return to its original shape when the stress is removed (elastic deformation). Outside of the linear region, in the non-linear region, the material will undergo permanent deformation until catastrophic failure.
Young’s modulus is defined as:
\begin{equation}
E = \frac{\sigma(\varepsilon)}{\varepsilon} = \frac{F / A}{\delta L / L_{0}} = \frac{FL_0}{A \delta L}
\end{equation}
E is the Young's modulus (modulus of elasticity) [Pa or N/m^2]
F is the force exerted on an object under tension
A is the actual cross-sectional area, which equals the area of the cross-section perpendicular to the applied force;
$\Delta\L$ is the amount by which the length of the object changes ( $\Delta\L$ is positive if the material is stretched , and negative when the material is compressed)
$L_{0}$ is the original length of the object.
During our testing we measured compressive strength. To get a more complete picture of the material properties of our fungi, we’d need to also perform tensile strength tests.
Building Instructions
Bill of materials
- Pressure gauge
- [a,b]: Car jack, 2 tons
- Steel square tube, length (30 cm), width (10 cm)
- Threaded steel rod, length (30 cm), Ø (10mm)
- Hex nuts (8)
- Washers (8)
Fabrication steps
Caution: When working with metal, be very careful of your environment and work piece. You cannot see/feel if metal is scorching warm before it’s too late, and you get 2nd degree burn on your fingers. The machinery is spinning very fast, and has A LOT of torque. It wont stop or even slow down if your hair or sleeves get caught. Wear protective eyewear. After every cut in metal, make sure to deburr ALL edges. The metal is razor sharp after a cut/drill. Frame: [Square tube, threaded rod, 8 hex-nuts, 8 washers]
- Cut a 30 cm long piece of square tubing.
- Cut your piece in half, lengthwise. You now have the top and bottom of the frame.
- If you are not able to use a saw for this step, a grinder with a cut-wheel will work. However; if you do this, you’ll need to mill the edges in order to make them square.
- Measure out where you’ll have to drill holes. The edge of the drilled hole should be 2.5 cm from any edge. Use one tap with a center-punch.
- Drill the holes. The holes should be drilled in steps in order to not destroy the drill. Start with 4mm → 6mm → 8 → 10mm.
- Cut two, 30 cm long pieces from a threaded rod. Ø10mm
- Assemble according to the schematic.
Car jack: [Car jack, pressure gauge]
This step will depend heavily on which car jack you acquire. We bought a car jack without a pressure gauge. If you buy a jack with a pressure gauge, disregard this part of the instructions. I’ll explain how to hack the car jack in general terms, and how to determine which pressure gauge to buy.